Kumatagi – Once a Dazzling Spa Now a Shepherd’s Grazing Ground

In the might of the battlefield at Kurukshetra, when Arjuna is deeply moved anticipating the devastation and severe loss of life of all his cousins, Lord Krishna, his sarathi comes to counsel with words ‘Change is the law of universe. You can be a millionaire, or a pauper in an instant’.

Yes, I felt exactly the same while being at Kumatagi on Bijapur’s outskirt. Ibrahim Adil Shah II, the mystic and the spiritual sultan of AdilShahi dynasty that ruled from Bijapur in Deccan in the 16th and the 17th centuries CE had built a beautiful spa and water resort for his personal and family enjoyment. When built and in use, it was splendid filled with amazement.


Sultan Ibrahim seeking blessing from a Sufi Saint – a mural inside the pavilion at Kumtagi Spa


The view of the royal Kumtagi Spa


The gate through which the Sultan and his troop entered the spa


The ruined mosque and bazaar


The ruined mosque – closer view


The ruined arches of the bazaar

But 400 years later, when I visited Kumatagi recently, I found nothing but a clutter of ruins. The Sultan would never have imagined of its present situation.

But the soul of the land is not dead. It was a humble shepherd who drew my attention.


Neither he knows who was Ibrahim and nor about the ruins. I wanted to take a couple of pictures of him along with the herd of sheep/goats. But to my surprise he was tensed as one of his sheep missing. Finally he could trace it. By the time it was nearing dark he prepared for the return to his humble home nearby.


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