Jaugada – Beyond Ashokan Edicts

Who does not like listening a good story? Otherwise what is there in a desolate archaeological site, such as Jaugada in Rusikuliya Valley of southern Odisha. In the 3rd Century BCE, it was a flourishing civilisation. Known as Samapa, its prosperity had dragged Ashoka to address its provincial head, Mahamatta and its people on dhamma…

Sex for Liberation – Bhubaneswar’s Vaital Deula

On a busy road in the heritage district of Bhubaneswar is located Vaital Deula to what the Bhubaneswarias call Tinimundia Mandira because of its three amalaka crowns placed in a straight line over a boat shaped mastaka. The temple breaks the convention of Odiya style. Built in the style of a Buddhist chaitya, the temple…

Aragarh Hill – a Lost Buddhist World

In mid 1990s, as a PhD student when I was exploring the Daya River Valley I had spent quite a few days at Aragarh Hill and its surrounding villages to map early settlements and Buddhist sites. It was part of my intuition that Daya River was one important corridor for Odisha’s sea trade with Java,…

Votive Stupas of Ratnagiri – Spectacular Yet Desolate

If you like exploring Hire Benekal in Karnataka as the most spectacular prehistoric funerary site in Indian Subcontinent, then a visit to Ratnagiri in Odisha will not disappoint you. Both rival each other in their sheer number of funerary monuments though architecturally different against the backdrop of spectacular landscapes. The only difference is the timeline…